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Shimla’s Heritage Betrayed: Murals Whispering in Shadows

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Shimla, November 26 Ritanjali Hastir

In the relentless pursuit of progress, Shimla’s once vibrant murals, especially those crafted by the eminent Professor Mahesh Chander Saxena, now echo a heartbreaking tale of abandonment and disregard. The age-old adage, ‘aage daud peeche chaud‘ (the faster you try to do anything, the more likely it is that you make mistakes), seems to have become the guiding principle for successive governments, leaving the historical treasures of Shimla languishing in a state of decay.

Pashmina Lady by Prof. M.C. Saxena

These murals, that stand as a silent witnesses to Shimla’s rich cultural tapestry for over half a century, have fallen prey to the shortsightedness of administrations that opted for flashy new paintings over the preservation of existing heritage. The current plight of Prof. Saxena’s murals on the retaining walls of the Mall Road serves as a stark reminder of the apathy that has befallen these once-pristine works of art. The bulbs in the sockets have long ceased to glow, leaving pieces of Shimla’s legacy shrouded in darkness, both literally and metaphorically.

The Gaddi, with women picking Kangar Tea leaves which have a unique style of plucking.

The Mall, a place frequented by everyone from the chief minister to ministers, aristocrats, bureaucrats, and even the chief justice, has transformed into a canvas for neglect. This neglect isn’t confined to Prof. Saxena’s murals alone; even the dancing couple installed by Homi Chatterjee in 2017 has been veiled in darkness for over a year since its installation. The bulb sockets, like empty eyes, stare into oblivion, emblematic of the ignorance that has engulfed this artistic masterpiece.

The Dancing Couple; artist Homi Chatterjee (2017), saw light for almost a year or so and post that stands in darkness.

As we bear witness to the current scenario, the words resound — ‘If you don’t know your history, then you don’t know where you are coming from’. It is disheartening to note that many of the city’s youth fail to identify the murals, including ‘The Apple Picker’, ‘Gaddi the Shepherd,’ and ‘The Pashmina Ladies,’ underlining the gradual erosion of Shimla’s cultural roots. Ironically many of them cannot even recognise the artist Saxena nor some of the contemporary intellectuals could not differentiate between the artist Prof Saxena or current Himachal’s Chief Secretary Prabodh Saxena, IAS.

In a poignant expression of regret, Prof. MC Saxena, the creative force behind several murals adorning the retaining walls of Shimla, shared his disappointment at the neglect these artworks have faced over the years. “My idea was to embellish the gloomy retaining walls of Shimla, left unattended post the British era, and infuse them with artistic flavor.”

According to Prof. Saxena, the original chain adorning the sculpture ‘Duty with Love’ that was carved in the year 1972 during the Indo Pak Summit was broken due to a confrontation between two prominent individuals in Himachal Pradesh.

“Duty with Love” carved in the year 1972 during the Indo Pak Summit

Expressing remorse, Saxena lamented the lack of attention these murals have received over the years. He pointed out the absence of any information about the artist or the former Governor AK Banerjee, who inaugurated the first mural near Shere Punjab, showcasing the apple economy of Himachal. Saxena emphasised the need for a brief description accompanying each mural, providing insights into the cultural and economic significance of Himachal Pradesh.

“The Picking, Packing and Consumption” representing the State’s Apple Economy; inaugurated by the former Governor AK Banerjee

He emphasised the need for a brief description accompanying each mural, providing insights into the cultural and economic significance of Himachal Pradesh. Expressing his reservations, he emphasises the importance of entrusting this task not to mere painters but to artists with a profound sense of artistry.

In the quest for modernisation and beautification, newer murals have emerged, raising questions about the government’s ability to handle and appreciate the city’s old artwork. The irony lies in the fact that while millions are spent in the name of development, especailly by filling the city with iron, the heritage that defines Shimla’s essence is left to wither away.

Wall Painting at Historic Mall Failed Aesthetically!

Wall Painting at Historic Mall Failed Aesthetically!

In the heart of Shimla, a stark contrast emerges between the enduring legacy of Professor Mahesh Chander Saxena’s murals, standing tall for over half a century, and the ephemeral fate of recent wall paintings that barely endured for five years. The disparity raises questions not just about artistic choices but also about the judicious use of public funds.

The wall painting made during the celebration of 50 years of statehood in year 2021

The global name of Shimla, echoing in corridors beyond borders, deserves more than transient artwork that fails to leave a lasting impression. The expenditure on these short-lived murals raises concerns about the responsible allocation of public resources, especially when juxtaposed with the enduring legacy of Saxena’s masterpieces.

The recent mural with broken frame and a dirty airdrying mop reflects on people’s failure to respect cultural or artistic value. Devta in Dev Bhoomi definitely deserves better offering than a filthy mop.

In the grandeur of progress, it seems that Shimla’s art and heritage have become casualties of neglect, with successive governments turning a blind eye to the deterioration of these cultural gems. The vanishing murals are more than just paintings; they are the silent cries of a city’s neglected heritage, pleading for a second chance before they are lost to the winds of time.

The government’s inability, or rather any government’s, to preserve these cultural artifacts raises questions about its commitment to Shimla’s history and legacy. The current government’s claims about “rivaaz badlenge” and “vivastha parivartan” will only hold true if applied to this vanishing artistic legacy. The clock is ticking, and only time will reveal whether Shimla’s art and heritage will endure or fade into obscurity.

1 thought on “Shimla’s Heritage Betrayed: Murals Whispering in Shadows

  1. Outside the Reporting Room, the statue of the kid being looked after by a policeman had two black boards on both sides. Where are they? One dayz perhaps before COVID I saw them removing those boards. I asked them why were they removing them. They said – for repair. They were called Lost & Found Boards.

    In the lawns of Bantony there were two carved stones designed by Mr. Sanat Chatterjee, Him Cahtterjee’s father. They are also missing. During the renovation work of Bantony they have got misplaced.

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