Kangra Fort: History Erased, One Brick at a Time!

Shimla/Kangra Mar 02, Ritanjali Hastir

The Kangra Fort, a historic monument nestled in the picturesque Kangra Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India, stands as a poignant testament to the ravages of time and the apathy of those entrusted with its care. This ancient stronghold, with a rich history dating back to the Mahabharata era, has borne witness to the rise and fall of empires, the ebb and flow of cultures, and the indelible mark of human neglect.

The welcome board, erected by the Archaeological Survey of India, serves as a powerful reminder of the neglect that has devastated the Kangra Fort. Despite its weathered and worn appearance, the board valiantly attempts to share the rich history of the site with visitors. It is as if the board, too, has resigned itself to the same fate as the fort – deserted, yet existing solely for the sake of its own existence.

Nearby, the local bath lies defaced, its walls scarred by the careless etchings of love-struck couples and thoughtless individuals. The once-pristine surface now bears the weight of mindless graffiti, a stark reminder of the disregard for heritage that pervades our society.

Major Vijai Singh Mankotia, former member of Legislative Assembly from the Shahpur constituency in Kangra and a passionate advocate for the Fort’s preservation, recounts the tale of the Lakshmi Narain idol, which went missing decades ago. “The idol was smuggled out, and yet, the temple still bears the name plate, a haunting reminder of what once was,” he laments. This sense of loss is palpable, a nagging feeling that echoes through the empty halls and corridors of the Fort. He further adds, “If anyone is to be held responsible for the neglect and therefore the inevitable deterioration of some of our historic monuments, it is the Archaeological Survey of India, who have on one pretext or another ignored the many occasions on which their attention has been drawn to save these monuments from total ruination and ultimate collapse.”

He further adds that once, “At the ministerial conference of all State Tourism Ministers called by the Central Government, he complained of the neglect and apathy of the ASI towards the historic monuments and heritage sites including Kangra Fort. But both the Centre and the State failed to reclaim the falling structure and its ramparts to provide a work force with architectural experts and allocate funds for publicity and a ‘Light and Sound’ show to depict its history. Only a small amount was sanctioned and much later with regime change lighting of the Fort barely lasted three-four months and then curtains! We lack a sense of history and a vision, more so at the level of a time-serving bureaucrats.”

As one navigates the temple complex, a sense of dissonance pervades the atmosphere. The sound of footsteps, the rustling of clothing, and the loud conversations all seem to desecrate the sacred space. The most jarring aspect, however, is the sight of people walking through the temple with their shoes on, a blatant disregard for the sanctity of the site. This callousness is a stark reminder of the neglect that has plagued the Kangra Fort for centuries.

The recent theft of approximately 30 invaluable artifacts from the Maharaja Sansar Chandra Museum within the Fort serves as a stark wake-up call. This brazen act of thievery has not only resulted in the loss of precious cultural heritage but also exposed the glaring vulnerabilities in the Fort’s security apparatus.

Furthermore, the Fort’s illumination system, installed to highlight its grandeur, lies in a state of disrepair. Non-functional lights, a testament to the civic sense of the community, waste of electricity and resources as well. This disregard not only mars the aesthetic appeal of the Fort but also underscores the lack of accountability and responsibility among those entrusted with its maintenance.

Tourism Officer Vinay Kumar acknowledges the challenges, saying, “Part of the area lies beyond our jurisdiction, as an area of the premises is privately owned by the Katoch Family who is responsible for its maintenance. The Temple houses their Kul Devi Mandir and it is often frequented by locals as well for prayers.” However, he emphasizes the need for collective action, stating, “We do plan to talk and see what can be done to boost tourism there and take collective measures.”

As the sun sets over the Kangra Valley, casting a golden glow over the Fort, one cannot help but feel a sense of melancholy wash over. The Kangra Fort, once a proud sentinel of the Kingdom of Trigarata, now stands as a poignant symbol of the relentless passage of time and the impact of human neglect. Its crumbling walls, empty temples and looted treasures serve as a heartrending reminder of the importance of preserving our cultural heritage.

The fact that a mere ₹10 is sufficient to grant entry to the Fort, without any semblance of accountability or supervision, raises disturbing questions. Are we truly valuing our cultural heritage, or are we merely paying lip service to its preservation?

In the words of Major Mankotia, “We lack a sense of history and a vision, more so at the level of a time-serving bureaucracy. The Kangra Fort has never been restored structurally to its original form. The erstwhile rulers also, before Independence, allowed the deterioration to set in and abandoned what earlier was their seat of governance and abode. Thereafter the story of the take-over by the ASI is well known. But worst, still was the removal of idols, stone carvings, works of art or architectural value and wanton defacing of these historic monuments. And the Kangra fort suffered this and was subjected to even more damage as live-stock was allowed to roam freely within its precincts and underbrush started sprouting unchecked. Picnickers freely used its interiors and exteriors to leave behind garbage/plastics and even defecated all over the place. The wandering spirits of the erstwhile rulers and their kin must weep, moan and groan at this heart-rending picture of what was once North India’s unique monument for the defense of the kingdom.”

It is imperative that governmental bodies, heritage organisations and local communities come together to safeguard the Kangra Fort’s legacy for future generations. The story of this ancient stronghold serves as a clarion call, urging us to recognise the value of our cultural heritage and take concrete steps to preserve it.

Kangra Fort’s History & Current Ruined State – a Summation by Major Mankotia

Kangra Fort, whose history dates back to the Mahabharata (The Kingdom of Trigarata) all the way down to Nagarkot and the successive invasions in the 9th-10th century of Ghazni, then Gohri followed by Tughlak, so on and so forth, all looting and plundering and laying waste. And yet this citadel retained its fortification. As time passed and Raja Sansar Chand Katoch became the ruler, he faced and succumbed to the aggression in succession by the Gorkhas, then the Sikhs and then finally the British.

The erstwhile ruling family, the Katoch’s, had been compelled to withdraw from Kangra and had taken residence at Lambagaon, close to the meandering river Beas, near Jaisinghpur. They occupy a small portion adjacent to the Kangra Fort where they’ve set up a small museum regarding the history of their dynasty. Across the road flourishes an impressive complex that houses a Jain Temple evidently of great significance to the Jain community as a vast number of followers keep streaming-in right through the year. Tourists are curious to see and learn more about the Fort and its history but the only sayers are street vendors adding spice.

If memory serves me right possibly in 2004 and then in 2015, the flood lighting of the Fort took shape during the successor BJP regime and half way was abandoned for whatever reasons best known to them! Once, the DG Archeological Survey of India too side-stepped the issue by saying that they would take action at the earliest, a time which has never been seen.

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